Colombia’s Rosario Islands

I’ve spent the past several hours writing and re-writing this article, and yet here I am starting over. I pride myself on finding deeper meaning in the things I do, in seeking out those little nuggets of history or a cultural gem, things that bring learning to something that most don’t associate with it. But…

Gabriel Garcia Marquez in Cartagena

All of my books have loose threads of Cartagena in them. And with time, when I have to call up memories, I always bring back an incident from Cartagena, a place in Cartagena, a character in Cartagena. Gabriel Garcia Marquez Upon Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s death in 2014, then-President of Colombia Juan Manuel Santos called him…

Colombia’s Totumo Mud Volcano

With just a small motion of my arms, I sink another quarter inch into the warm mud. And actual lateral movement requires kicking off one of the walls, and even then “swimming” through spectacularly thick and sticky mud to one of the two ladders is a rough go. It is uncomfortable, bobbing almost weightless in…

Cartagena’s Old City

Remnants of colonial cities in the Americas can be very hit or miss. Some are not in terrific shape, like that in Santo Domingo (outside of a very central core that is truly awesome). Others, like San Juan, are gorgeous, but only play host to tourists, making the experience - while lovely - feel a…

Trip Itinerary: Japan

In 2020, my family planned a trip to Japan, a cruise around the islands. That was obviously canceled when the world closed. The trip was tentatively rescheduled for 2022, but Japan didn’t reopen, so it never moved forward. Here we are in 2024, and the trip is booked, finally. I was in Japan once before,…